It’s a wonderful place both inside and outside.

Located just one block from the beach — on Passeig de Dintre, where the daily fresh fruit and vegetables market takes place — Terrassans caters to tourists and locals alike.

It’s terrace is nearly always full. (Tip: when it’s not — and in particular when you do not see any locals there — do as the locals do: wait till the siesta is over. That’s when the kitchen opens again — and the tapas will be at their best).

Cafe Terrassans, Blanes

When you spend some time on Terrassan’s terrace, either enjoying the sun or the shade of the large umbrellas, you can hardly imagine what Blanes is like during the fall and winter months.

But while the weather here usually isn’t quite as nasty as it gets back home, generally its not good enough to spend time lounging on a terrace.

So the terrace of Cafe Terrassans is put to good use — sporting a huge nativity scene:

The largest waves occurred in El Prat de Llobregat (Barcelona) and Blanes (Girona), but Protecció Civil, Catalonia’s Civil Protection service, has listed incidents of storm damage in towns along the entire coast.

In most cases the damage is limited to the erosion of beaches, or some flooding of promenades and roads near the coast.

This time around no damage has been reported to the promenade along S’Abanell, the beach along Blanes’ tourist district.

In previous years storms frequently ate away sections of the boulevard.

In 2009 the boulevard was repaired and reinforced — temporary measures in anticipation of an ambitious redevelopment and improvement project affecting the beach, promenade and streets in the El Pins district.

Each year storm damage to the beaches is repaired.

Much Rain

The large amounts of rain have caused minor landslides, such as on Vidal y Barraquer, one of the roads leading to Blanes’ Castell de Sant Joan.

In recent months Catalonia has been inundated with heavy rains. To give an idea of the amount of water involved, local news website BlanesAldia.com says that from October 19 Malgrat de Mar — just south of Blanes — has seen 510 liters of rainwater per square meter, the amount usually collected during an entire year.

Minor landslides and some flooding has been reported in rural areas throughout Catalonia.

The Civil Protection service has activated the alert phase of INUNCAT, an emergency plan that deals with the threat or occurrence of flooding. It has closed access to some jetties and boulevards along the coast.

The weather services says that while the storm has moved on, waves of up to 2.5 meters high can still be expected.

It was replaced long ago by the modern fish auction building closer to the port.

Earlier this month, a portion of the old building succumbed to the effects of the heavy rain storms that have been plaguing much of Catalonia this fall.

The building has not been in use for years as it is affected by aluminosis — degeneration of the cement used in its construction.

The roof had by now deteriorated so much that it simply could not support the accumulated amount of rain water.

The building — at least the white part of it — was therefore demolished. The red rood of the old structure is still standing.

Rainwater has caused damaged throughout Blanes, and emergency services have had to remove a number of uprooted trees and damaged walls.

Last month 36 people had to be evacuated from an apartment building along Joaquim Ruyra as run-off from the rains had damaged the building’s foundation.

It is called Tiki Tapa.

The first time we ate there more or less by accident, but we’ve returned several times since then.

We had intended to have lunch at one of our favorite restaurants. However, the place was closed that day, and since it was siesta time there weren’t many options.

So we went to the boulevard to have a quick snack and something to drink at one of the fast food places.

Unfortunately, the owner — who clearly likes her customers — wasn’t there. Instead we found a surly waitress who couldn’t care less. Her attitude was so bad that we left and went somewhere else.

We ended up next door, at Tiki Tapa.

We were greeted by a friendly waiter who asked what we’d like to drink, and whether we wanted a menu in English, Spanish or Catalan.

Tiki Tapa, Blanes
© Copyright VisitBlanes.com

This nice greeting set the tone for the rest of our experience. We consulted the menu, as well as the hand-written sandwich boards and selected our meals.

We were impressed by the fact that the waiter took the time to answer our questions, and that making a substitute was no problem. I had spotted a fried eggs dish with chorizo and french fries, and asked whether it was possible to have patatas bravas instead of the fries.

While we waited we drank ort cold beers and enjoyed the sights and sounds of the boulevard and the beach and sea beyond.

Great food, friendly service, nice ambiance

We did not have to wait long, but as we soon discovered it wasn’t fast food either. Our meals looked and smelled wonderful — and the taste immediately made clear that we had found another spot to add to our short list of recommended places to eat.

As somewhat of an authority on the subject (by virtue of a healthy appetite) I must say that Tiki Tapas serves the best tasting patatas bravas I have found anywhere.

The combination with the fried eggs and chorizo (other ingredients are available as well) was fantastic.

The portions were generous as well and, just as important, the dishes were well-presented. In fact, the whole ambiance of the place — comfortable, black chairs and hand-written sandwich boards instead of fading, odd-colored posters of standard dishes — contributed much to the experience.

Like I said, we’ve been back at Tiki Tapa several times now, and feel confident in recommending this place for a nice meal, good beer and friendly service.

Prices are very reasonable.

Where to find Tiki Tapa

Tiki Tapa is located at Passeig Pau Casals 40. It is close to the music stage at the end of the promenade along the main beach of Blanes.

You can eat inside, but we dined at the outdoor terrace. You’ll recognize it by the black chairs and hand-written sandwich boards.

Tiki Tapa
Passeig Pau Casals 40
Blanes

Telephone: 872 986 046
Tiki Tapa @ Facebook

The project, which is of great importance to Blanes’ tourism industry, will cost ten to twelve million Euro. Besides giving the waterfront a new look, the upgrade is also expected to solve the recurring problems of low levels of sand — as well as other storm damage — at S’Abanell beach.

Redevelopment will take place in two phases: phase one runs from the pedestrian zone at the rocky promentory of La Palomera to Mercè Rodoreda (see map below). Phase two, which is still being negotiated, deals with the area between Mercè Rodoreda and the Tordera river.

Boulevard along S’Abanell beach, July 2009, with temporary breakwater reinforcements
© Copyright VisitBlanes.com

The plan — which has also been approved by Spain’s Ministry of the Environment — will be put out to bid within two or three months, Blanes Mayor Jose Trias says.

However, the bidding process and execution of the project cannot start this year for lack of funds. Inititally it was expected that the work could begin as soon as this September, but the final plans were delivered to the Council after the budget deadline.

Municipal authorities are confident that the project will be awarded in 2012, and that work will commence that same year. The entire venture is expected to be completed in 2015.

No major construction will take place during the tourist season, so tourists will not be inconvenienced.

As yet undecided are some aspects of Phase 2 of the plan, which among other things calls for the possible extension of the boulevard all the way to Malgrat.

Storm Damage

The residential neighborhood of El Pins is home to most of Blanes’ hotels and campings.

An improvement project for the tourist district has long been in the planning.

In March, 2009 the renovation of Passeig de Abanell was referred to as a parallel project. However, that project — which involves the renovation of Passeig de Abanell, improvements to the beach, and measures expected to help combat erosion of the beach — is now getting priority treatment.

Over the past decade increasingly violent winter storms have repeatedly decimated S’Abanell beach, frequently causing much damage to the boulevard that runs along it, as well as to the buildings on the boulevard.

While the sand has always been replaced well in time for the tourist season, the yearly cost associated with the recreation of the beach has become prohibitive.

In 2008 tourists noticed that the sand level at S’Abanell was significantly lower than in previous years.

Later that year the Costa Brava was battered by a massive storm. In what the mayor referred to as the worst storm Blanes has seen since the 1950s, the December 26 storm caused much damage to pleasure boats, fishing vessels, tourist ferries and the boulevards along Platja de Blanes and S’Abanell.

At S’Abanell, two buildings on the boulevard were destroyed — the lifeguard station and a small bar, and sections of the boulevard were swept away.

While the storm was uncharacteristically strong, it is believed that the low level of sand at S’Abanell contributed to the amount of damage done to the boulevard and its structures.

One year later a lengthy section of the boulevard was reconstructed and reinforced with boulders.

Though the repairs were of a temporary nature they have already paid off since this stretch of the boulevard has not been damaged during subsequent storms.

Several unprotected sections of the boulevard did receive damage, and in some spots the boulevard’s pavement is still buckled.

Phase 1

The waterfront to be redeveloped in Phase 1 of the project falls under the responsibility of the State of Spain.

The area covered by Phase 2 is the responsibility of La Generalitat de Catalunya. The Generalidat is still negotiating some aspects of the project, which will impact the campings in that area.

Cellestino Lillo, Councillor for the Environment
© Copyright Zoe Diez Gomez Used by permission

Both Mayor Trias and the Councillor for the Environment, Celestino Lillo, considered it important that the project would include not just the fortification and redevelopment of the boulevard, but also the traffic lanes and the pavement across the road.

In Phase 1 the traffic lanes will be pushed back anywhere between 5 and 12 meters, depending on the area. In some spots, such as at Passeig de la Marina in front of the school, this will result in a loss of parking spaces.

The parking spaces across the road from the school will disappear as well. This stretch of the walkway — between La Palomera and boulevard restaurant El Pins — will be moved 2 meters landinwards in order to facilitate the beach. Currently the ‘beach’ along this section of the boulevard usually consists only of huge breakwater boulders.

Lilo says that when the construction is finished the Ministry of the Environment will contribute 500,0000 m³ of sand to S’Abanell beach — instead of the 100,000 m³ normally provided. At that time the beach will be anywhere from 2 to 12 meters wide.

The boulevard along S’Abanell beach will be protected by a breakwater of huge boulders buried underneath the sand.

Buried underneath the sand across the entire boulevard will be a 3 to 4 meters deep breakwater consisting of large boulders — a construction designed to prevent storm damage to the new boulevard.

The boulevard will sport a decorative pavement and room for trees and benches. The same pavement will also be used for the pedestrian walkways across the traffic lanes.

The restaurants along the boulevard will also be renovated. However, they will be reduced in size from 200 m² to 120 m².

Passeig de la Marina — which runs between plaçac de Catalunya and Passeig de Catalunya (at the fountain) — will remain a two-way street, but traffic along Passeig de Abanell will run South only (thus in the direction of the campings). A bike path will be created alongside the traffic lane.

In addition, some side streets of Passeig de Abanell will be turned into pedestrians-only zones.

Phase 2

Phase 2 of the project will have a big impact on four campings along the seafront: Camping Blanes, Bella Terra, Voramar and El Pinar.

Camping El Pinar — at the Southernmost end, next to the Tordera river — will reportedly disappear as it is located on property that, according to the zoning plan, is part of the seafront.

The other three campings will have to give up some ground, as the boulevard in that area will be pushed up to 40 meters landinwards. This is necessary because the city and the Generalitat plan to fortify the shore in this area.

In addition there are plan to extend the boulevard not just to Avingude de la vila de la Madrid, but also to extend it all the way to Malgrat so that the two sea-side resorts are connected.

By virtue of its relative size Camping Blanes is expected to lose the least amount; Bella Terra more, and Voramar a big chunk of ground.

The camping owners are reluctant to give up space. They are negotiating with the city as well as with each other. Bella Terra reportedly has offered to buy whatever is left of Voramar in order to recoup its own loss of acreage. The plans for Phase 2 can not be finanalized until all parties come to an agreement.

Incidentally, last year El Pinar and Voramar, afraid of another devastating storm, illegally built a defense wall consisting of large boulders. The city fined the campings a total of €6,000, but notes that the remaining campings will benefit from the fortification measures included in the redevelopment plan.

2011 Tourist Season

As it has done every year, the City of Blanes will make sure there is enough sand on the beaches from Club de Vela at the harbor to the Tordera River.

Blanes’ harbor expansion project is coming along just fine
© Copyright Zoe Diez Gomez Used by permission

Meanwhile work on the harbor enlargement and fortification project has steadily advanced.

That project also includes the building of a jetty for the tour boats that ferry tourists between Blanes and other resorts along the Costa Brava coast.

When the harbor project is finished the retaining wall will have been transformed into a counterpart of the popular seafront boulevard along Platja de Blanes and the yachting harbor.

The city has said it will encourage tourists and locals alike to use the harbor area as an ideal place to eat, walk and recreate. The walkway atop the retaining wall will include concession stands.

Blanes Beachfront Redevelopment Map

View Blanes beachfront redevelopment project in a larger map

- Reporter: Zoé Díez Gómez. Editing: Visit Blanes

The Costa Brava has a typical Mediterranean climate with hot summers and mild winters.

Located at the Southern-most part of the Costa Brava, Blanes is blessed with summer months that are not oppressively hot and a winter season that is not bone-chillingly cold.

That said, while some websites aimed at tourists suggest the citizens of Blanes enjoy outdoor dining all year round, that is usually not the case. The winter months do have cold spells.

In addition, while there is plenty of sunshine even during the months of November through April that normally doesn’t make for fine beach weather even for the most dedicated sun-worshippers.

Blanes Weather – Month by Month

Blanes climate by month, including minimum and maximum average temperatures (Celcius), average temperature, relatively humidity, days and amount of rain or drizzle

• Temperatures based on measurements compiled from data collected over the past 4 decades
• In July, August and the early part of September the relative humidity can make it feel (much) hotter than it actually is. Be sure to drink plently of liquids. Heat and humidity is not an issue at temperatures below about 24° Celcius
• On rare occassions Blanes sees some snowfall during the winter months

Current Weather in Blanes

Rain

Regardless of what you may have heard about the rain in Spain it doesn’t mainly fall in the plains.

You can expect rain in Blanes throughout the year, though certainly not every day. The good is news is that, more of than not, it usually rains during the middle of the night.

Even when it rains during the day most of it is in the form of relatively brief showers. However, every once in a while there will be downpour that blanks the streets in no-time.

Overall it doesn’t rain often enough — or long enough — to justify bringing an umbrella.

Best Time to Visit Blanes

Generally the best time to visit Blanes is in the months of June through September.

Mind you, July and August are both the hottest and the busiest months.

Locals and experienced frequent visitors say that September — certainly the first half of the month — is the very best time to visit the resort. The crowds are gone, the weather is still great, and everything is more relaxed.

The second half of June is good as well. There’s plenty of space at the beaches, though on weekends it can get very busy indeed.

Whether or not you’ll encounter one or more subsequent days of rain is pretty much the luck of the draw — especially in June or September.

With two halls and a total capacity of 1600 people it is also the largest disco in Blanes.

The largest hall, called Arena, is dedicated to theme nights — anything from foam parties and Holland parties (so many Dutch tourists vacation in Blanes that discos like Arena hire their own Dutch-speaking staff for the summer months) to Spanish evenings.

The slightly smaller second hall is decorated in Pirates of the Caribbean style, and is called Silvers. This hall is home to primarily Urban music, while the night closes off with Electro/House.

Disco Arena features international top DJs and artists, professional dancers, and a fantastic laser show.

The folks who operate Disco Arena are also the people behind Club Essensia. More exclusive, it works with a guest list and a minimum age of 18.

Addres and Information

Disco Arena
Carrer d’Eivissa 2
Blanes
Tel: 972 335 762

Age limit: 16 and older

Website:
Dutch
Spanish

Ryanair made the agreement with AGI — an association formed by the Catalan Government, the Girona Provincial Council and the Girona Chamber of Commerce. The association promote tourism in Girona counties.

Ryaniar at Girona airport
© Copyright Jornal.cat

As part of the agreement AGI has commited to increase marketing and publicity for Girona territories through Ryanair’s advertising channels — primarily the Ryanair website. AGI will spent EUR 7.5 million a year on the agreement, for a total of EUR 45 million through 2016.

Spanish newspapers revealed that even before the agreement was signed Ryanair already received EUR 80 million in subsidies.

The new agreement has brought to and end the uncertainty of whether or not the airline, which last September also began flights to and from Barcelona Airport, would continue to service Girona.

Some observers say that Ryanair’s new base at Barcelona’s El Prat airport has made a significant negative impact on the airline’s Girona routes.

Yet for it part Ryanair has now committed to maintain its current level of 4 million passengers a year at Girona airport. The discount airline hopes to do so in part by creating new routes to Sweden, Norway, Croatia and Germany.

By the summer of 2011 Ryanair will service 64 routes to and from Girona, of which 8 are new: to Cochstedt (German), Karlstad and Skelleftea (Sweden), Kristiansand (Norway), Plovdiv (Bulgaria), Rzeszow and Szczecin (Poland), Tallinn (Estonia) and Zadar (Croatia).

Ryanair also operates our of Reus airport.

Note: Girona Airport is 103km (64.2 miles) North-East of Barcelona — about 1 hour and 20 minutes by train from Barcelona center.
– – © Copyright VisitBlanes.com. Do not republish or repost.

• Population: 40,010
• Surface area: 17, 7 km²
• Hotels: 22
• Hotel beds: 3,714
• Campsites: 12
• Campsite places: 9,310

• Blanes is located in Catalonia, one of Spain’s 17 autonomous communities. It is situated in the province of Girona, and in the comarca (local government area) of Selva.
• Mayor: Josep Trias i Figueras

VisitBlanes.com — Whether you’ve vacationed in Blanes enough times to be recognized by the locals, or it’s your first visit to this wonderful beach resort, you owe it to yourself to sample some genuine Catalan dishes.

We’re assuming, of course, that you’ll want to set your sight a bit higher than Patatas Brava and Calamari a la Romana, all or not washed away with cheap Sangria.

In other words, while we well know there are some gems to be found among the tourist-district restaurants and eateries you will want to find a place that caters to the locals.

Fine Catalonian dining.
© El Caliu

More often than not that means you’ll have to venture deeper into Blanes — away from the beach, the snack-bars, the hotels and the hordes of tourists.

That said, usually you won’t have to travel far, and such is the case with El Caliu.

We discovered this fine restaurant more or less by accident.

One evening while vacationing in Blanes we were going to meet some friends for dinner at Damajuana — one of our favorite restaurants.

Unfortunately, the place was not open that evening. No problem, we thought: we’ll head for Cava Nit, another fine local restaurant. (And note that both these restaurants can be found very close to the beach, albeit in the old part of the village.)

When we discovered that Cava Nit wasn’t open either that night, one of our friends suggested going to El Caliu. We actually went by car, but it turned out to be a very short drive.

On subsequent occasions we simply walked, which took us about 20 minutes at a leisurely pace from the boulevard at Platja Blanes.

El Caliu is located at number 27, Avinguda Joan Carles I — in an old part of Blanes. Frankly, to us the street did not look all that promising. Let’s just say it’s not picturesque… But that was forgotten as soon as we entered the restaurant — and most certainly after we had tasted the food we were served.

Mind you, we’re not professional restaurant reviewers. But we sure know what we like, and we recognize quality when we see — and taste — it.

Add to this a welcome bonus: a hospitable atmosphere already hinted at in the name of the restaurant. “El Caliu” is the Catalonian word for the heat emanated from the embers of a fireplace. The name actually suites it very well, since as soon as you walk into the restaurant you can feel the warmth of its owner and family.

El Caliu is a family business. Owner and operater José Cruz Ferrón provides his customers with a variety of dishes, from regional food to fine dining.

José has a background of 14 years in the food industry — hands-on training that has made him an exceptional cook.

But at El Caliu José also counts on the support of someone who was his first teacher — and later his student as well: his mother, Trini, who rules the kitchen while José, in his inimitable way, takes care of the front of house.

The mother-and-son combination results in the most delightful dishes in which one detects that rare, sought-after combination of home-cooked flavor and fine dining quality.

We’re not going to name individual dishes, but we’ll tell you this: come with a good appetite. There’s something for everyone: fish, meat, vegetarian…

Don’t skip the starters either. You’ve got to see and taste them.

It’s easy to see why the locals love this restaurant and have thus far kept the place in business for nearly five years (El Caliu will celebrate its 5th birthday this October).

We’ve known about this restaurant for a while now, and to be honest we debated whether we should highlight it on this website. After all, we don’t want out ‘secret, hidden jewel’ to be overrun by tourists.

Then again, we decided that it’s far enough away from the beaten path of easy tapas and microwaved snacks to ‘risk it.’

Mind you, while casual and friendly, El Caliu has an upscale atmosphere so treat yourself and dress up a bit. We’re sure that once you’ve dined at El Caliu once, you will — like us — return again and again.

Address and Information

El Caliu
Av. Joan Carles I, 27 [Google Map, including walking / driving route]
17300 Blanes

Private, off-street parking available (no charge)

Tel: 972 33 81 92

No website, but you can reach Jose via email: josecruzferron @ msn.com (remove spaces)

- With thanks to Zoé Díez