Blanes – Where the Costa Brava Starts
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Blanes: Old-World Charm and Modern Tourist Amenities
Blanes — the first town on the Costa Brava — is popular with Catalans, Spaniards and foreign tourists alike. Here’s why.
Blanes has something to offer that few coastal towns in Catalonia — indeed, in the whole of Spain — have: old-world charm plus modern tourist amenities.
In contrast to Lloret de Mar, the tourist-crowded neighboring town to the north, Blanes has retained much of its original Catalan identity.
As in many other towns on the Spanish coast, Lloret de Mar’s old town center right on the beach has been transformed into a tourist trap with gaudy souvenir stores, hamburger chains, discos and amusement arcades. Many of the town’s inhabitants have moved away from the hustle and bustle (not to mention the many louts attracted by the cheap entertainment) of today’s tourist district.
Blanes has an authentic Catalan village ‘look and feel’
Although Blanes has also been influenced by tourism, much of the old town still has the look and feel of an old Catalan coastal village. Here, young and old locals mingle with tourists and day-trippers — buying fresh fruit and vegetables at the daily farmers’ market, enjoying tapas and beer at the Café Terrassans, which has been around forever, and strolling along the seafront promenade on their way to a late dinner. (The locals eat their dinner after 9:00 or 10:00 in the evening).
It’s true that most of the fishermen’s and sailors’ houses that once lined the beach have given way to five- and six-story apartment buildings. But a block inland, there are picturesque streets that recall the time when Blanes was known for its shipbuilding industry.
Active Fishing Fleet and Daily Fish Auction
Blanes still has an active fishing fleet and the only fish auction in the region. This thriving industry employs many of the locals who live in the old town center.
You can watch the fishing boats come and go throughout the day. If you visit the fish auction, you may see the very fish or other seafood that you will later enjoy in a restaurant or tapas bar.
In the city center there is also an extensive shopping center that stretches over a labyrinth of small streets and cozy squares where you can find all kinds of pubs, restaurants and bakeries.
Strikingly, there is no sign of the noisy souvenir stores and chain restaurants that have turned Lloret into a Las Vegas-style nightmare. Instead, most of the stores in Blanes are geared towards the needs of the locals.
Blanes’ Bustling Shopping Center
There is an excellent selection of elegant shoe stores and upmarket fashion boutiques as well as swimwear and lingerie stores.
At the same time, there is a variety of stores for every budget.
Blanes is a popular destination for weekend visitors from Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia. Many Barcelonians have their weekend and summer homes here.
The seaside resort is only about an hour and a half away from Barcelona by car or train.
No matter where you are in Blanes town centre, you are always only just a few blocks away from the crescent-shaped beach. It is popular with locals – and with the relatively few tourists sensible enough to rent an apartment rather than stay in a hotel – and is lined by a wide promenade with a wide selection of restaurants and eateries. At its southern end is La Palomera, a rocky headland that juts out into the blue waters of the bay and is the reason Blanes is known as the “gateway to the Costa Brava”
Blanes: Gateway to the Costa Brava (Wild Coast)
South of La Palomera the coast is mostly flat, smooth and unadventurous. Near Blanes, the coast becomes much more interesting. To the north, just past the port, you can see the rock formations that gave the Wild Coast (Costa Brava) its name. If you take one of the ferries along the coast, you will see an ever-changing landscape of steep cliffs and jagged rock formations interspersed with caves and small coves with hidden beaches.
If you stand on La Palomera after climbing the steps carved into the rock, you will be rewarded with a sweeping view of Blanes — from the harbor at the foot of the hills in the north to the pine-covered campsites at the southern end of the bay.
During the day, the sheltered beach at the foot of La Palomera is a popular spot for sunbathers, who find their place among the fishing boats. If you look inland, you will see S’Auger straight ahead — a district at the foot of ancient ruins from the time when the Romans lived here.
The Tourist District in Blanes: Longest Beach at the Costa Brava
To the north of La Palomera lies the Els Pins district – a reference to the many pine trees in that area. Els Pins is often referred to as the tourist district of Blanes, but both locals and tourists live here. While there are only a few high-rise buildings in the old town center, “Els Pins has a distinct resort character north of the “rock” — albeit on a much smaller, friendlier scale than elsewhere.
Further south you can see a number of popular campsites. The entire length of Els Pins is bordered by S’Abanell Further south you can see a number of popular campsites. The entire length of Els Pins is bordered by S’Abanell. At 2.1 km, it is said to be the longest beach on the Costa Brava. It has a lively promenade with restaurants and bars.
The golden sandy beach is wide and offers plenty of space for sun worshippers. Its northern end, which is closest to La Palomera, is only really busy at weekends. Then the locals and tourists are joined by weekend visitors from Barcelona, Girona and other parts of Catalonia.
The further south you go along the beach, the fewer locals and the more tourists you meet. In the summer months, you will hear more Dutch than any other language — especially in the popular camping areas. Blanes is also popular with tourists from Germany, France and England.
Swimming and Sunbathing: Blanes at its best
If you want to go on a beach vacation, Blanes is an excellent choice. There is a beach for every taste: from “hidden” coves such as Cala Bona to the long beach of S’Abanell.
If you continue towards the mouth of the – mostly dry – Tordera river, you will come across the official nudist beach of Blanes. Note that you can also be naked on the other beaches — as long as you don’t cause a nuisance. If you insist on exposing yourself completely, it’s best to be considerate of others and find a quiet spot.
That said, some locals go skinny dipping during their morning swim. If full or partial nudity is a problem for you, a beach vacation in Blanes is probably not for you. Topless swimming and sunbathing is very much accepted here, and you will be able to see many natural wonders of all shapes and sizes when you visit the beach. No one is a prude, no one is harassed for it and everyone is accepted.
Blanes offers everything a tourist could want for a fantastic vacation — from the relative tranquility of the beach to the hustle and bustle of the hotel part of Els Pins. There, hotel guests can choose from a wide range of entertainment, which is especially fun for families with children and teenagers. Amusement arcades, snack bars, restaurants and activity centers vie for your attention – fortunately on a much smaller and friendlier scale than in Lloret de Mar.
Video: We’re close to you! We’re Blanes!
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About this article
This article was first published in August, 2018. It is kept up-to-date by the VisitBlanes team.
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